Scotland, day 2

Sunday 17 July 2011

We had a good lie in; down to breakfast about 8.30am. Smoked haddock and poached egg – as good as I’ve tasted anywhere. I couldn’t get a signal on the wi-fi this morning and when I checked with the front desk, the receptionist said it was only available in the lounge and foyer on the ground floor. She was amazed that we had got a signal on the second floor.

Oban Harbour

We set off for Oban but had to wait until noon for most of the shops to open. Weather cool, windy with rain blowing in. We looked around the shops avoiding the rain, bought a map of Mull and booked passage for Monday to Craignure. Marea particularly wants to visit Tobermory.

McCaig's Tower over Oban

We thought of visiting Crarae Garden near Inveraray but the rain was rather persistent so we drove into Inveraray itself. I bought some Loch Fyne whisky – one that I particularly enjoy. Marea bought another French necklace like the ones she bought last year. We were pleased to see that the Parisienne lady who owns the shop was still in business – it can’t be easy, even in a tourist spot like Inveraray. We checked where the Highland Games were (for Tuesday) and went back to Portsonachan for dinner and The Apprentice final.

Narrative
Smoked haddock is a real treat here – it’s undyed very fresh and juicy. The only problem is that it’s a long way to Oban so deliveries could be more frequent. When available, it takes away the temptation to have a ‘full Scottish Breakfast’ with bacon, egg, sausage patty, white pudding, beans, toast and jam... etc.

Rain is a constant hazard in Oban – i don’t think we’ver ever been there when it hasn’t rained, though it rarely stays; clouds pass relatively quickly leaving the streets warm and damp with that Victorian seaside town feeling familiar from childhood holidays in Southport, Skegness, Cromer, St Leonards, etc.

Wonderful old-fashioned toilets near the ferry terminal in Oban

Inveraray doesn’t seem to have any real reason for being where it is at the top end of Loch Fyne – though it is the traditional county town of Argyll and ancestral home to the Duke of Argyll. The present town was built in the late 1700s after the then Duke moved the population of the existing village to improve the view from his rebuilt castle. This is one of the most prominent features of the place – the Duke and Duchess (new ones of course) are still in residence – together with the gaol, now a museum together with the floating maritime museum, neither of which I have to confess to not having visited. This is not because I don’t like museums but because the majority simply don’t come up to my ideas of what a museum ought to be; I have, unfortunately, been trained on the best.

Inveraray is a place that most people visit. (I’ve only just discovered that much of this is due to the regulation that bus drivers must take a rest after 2 hours driving. Inverary is exactly 2 hours drive from Glasgow so all services connecting Campbeltown, Oban and Fort William to or from Glasgow stop at Inverary for a 20 minute break. The real giveaway that it’s a real tourist trap is the fact that the public toilets cost 30pence rather than the Scottish norm of 20pence.

Paint your faces blue and...

... head for Scotland. Sorry to mock 'Braveheart' not my favourite film.

Friday 28 May 2010

We had decided to spend a long weekend in Scotland at one of our favourite spots, Port Sonachan on the side of Loch Awe, the longest freshwater loch in Scotland (over 25 miles) and undoubtedly one of the most beautiful. “It was from Loch Awe and surrounding area that Clan Campbell established itself as a powerful family. In 1308, Robert the Bruce defeated the Clan MacDougall at the Battle of the Pass of Brander downstream from the loch.” (Wikipedia).

Anyway, we set off about 8am in heavy traffic for the drive North, but as we drove through the Lake District the traffic thinned out as the landscape improved. There’s a lot to be said for the North of England (and I am strongly aware of the horrific occurrences of the last few days, so I’m sorry if this blog item seems frivolous; this blog isn’t intended to explore the deepest depths of human depravity.)


Having got through Glasgow, we headed for Loch Lomond and the Trossachs but first we decided to stop for a bite. Unfortunately the Services turned out to be a Little Chef! When my mushroom omelette came, it could have been used to sole boots. I think this is probably more ‘Glasgow’ than ‘Scotland’.

Loch Lomond

Beside Loch Lomond, all the verges were full of bluebells (Photo Billogs http://www.billogs.com/cb/lomond.htm) and, of course there were more along the way and at Loch Awe.

Loch Awe

Highland Cattle near Loch Awe

We did our usual trick of heading for the North side of the Loch, but soon recognised the road and turned back to the South side.

Port Sonachan is always just a bit further off the main road than we remember but we arrived in sunshine and the Loch and Ben Cruachan looked beautiful.

Our room wasn’t ready because of staff shortages – the hotel is rather isolated and finds it difficult to get staff to stay but this did not bode well. Anyway, we sat outside with a cup of tea and shortbreads while we waited. Last time we came (in late August) we couldn’t have sat outside – too cold!

The room itself was delightful and the Loch view was well worth paying a bit extra for. We decided to eat in the bar so went down early for a sundowner (though sundown is a bit later the further North you go – still light at 10.30pm – the ‘land of the simmer dim’). We found out later that some guests had had to wait about 2 hours for their rooms to be got ready. Ate in the bar; lentil soup and venison sausages – pretty good!

Sunset over Loch Awe

Bluebells at Loch Awe

Saturday 29 May 2010

We had wonderful local smoked haddock for breakfast and decided to go into Oban, actually about 42 miles away, to see whether there was an island trip we’d like to go on (any boat, anytime, anywhere – that’s me). Marea, of course, wanted to do some shopping so we had a wander around, particularly aiming for a shoe shop we visited last time we were in Oban. After trying on about 20 pairs, Marea decided on one pair and we went upstairs where I picked up a pair of Barker’s slip-ons, tried them on and bought them.

Oban - weather not great

Typical of Oban's Victorian style. The lady in green is Marea.

We wandered around to the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry office and eventually decided on a Sunday lunch cruise to Tiree, leaving port at 9am and getting back at 17.15 so it would fill the day. After further wanderings and purchases (Marea buying 2 tops) and both of us indulging in chips (VG) from the local chippy, we set off for Inveraray with the intention of buying a bottle of Loch Fyne whisky.

Inveraray Maritime Museum

Main Street, Inveraray

As we set off, it was raining but Marea said “Don’t worry, it will be dry by the time we reach Inveraray. It wasn’t! And it got worse! We bought the whisky – an extra bottle for a present and a couple of pieces of jewellery, one for Marea (birthday) and one for her sister (also for her birthday). The rain eased as we drove back to PortSonachan and had stopped by the time we reached the hotel, but it was rather cold.

When we got to the room it had not been made up. One of the great pleasures of staying in a hotel is that you come back to a perfect room and have time to get yourself sorted before dinner. Marea rang down and they said; “We’re sorry, we haven’t got around to your room yet; she will be there straight away” (this was 5pm). So we had to go down to the bar while the room was prepared. As soon as we got to the bar/conservatory, the heavens opened and it rained into the evening. Needs to be better tomorrow!

Sunday 30 May 2010

Up early and had a scratch breakfast. Set off for Oban in cool, cloudy weather. On the way down the Loch to the Oban Road, we flushed a Sika deer, our first of the holiday. Oban was still dull and a bit rainy as we boarded so we sat inside – comfortable but a bit noisy because we were in the family lounge with the children.

On the road to Oban - bright gorse but cloudy skies

The Calmac Ferry (left) ready to board

The Sound of Mull

Craignure Ferry

Into the Atlantic!

The cruise up the Sound of Mull was quite dull (weather wise) but as we turned out into the Atlantic, the sun came out through broken cloud and it got a bit warmer. Still too windy to sit outside, however.

Staffa in the far distance

Mull from the East

It’s a long cruise to Coll – about 3 hours 30, mostly not very exciting except when passing some of the smaller islands – Staffa in the very far distance. Coll seems rather bleak and there’s no sign of habitation but many people go there to walk and study the wildlife. Lots of vehicles got off the boat. By this time, the skies were gloriously clear and it was sunny and hot!

Arriving at Coll

A further hour’s cruising to Tiree which looks more lively. I know there’s windsurfing and kite surfing and there are great beaches and beautiful water on both islands. We think that coming from the midlands to sit on beaches in the far North sounds daft – it’s easier to go South, even over to Europe – but to Scottish tourists, they’re very close and easy to get to.

We ate lunch on the way from Coll to Tiree. CalMac advertise it as a Sunday Lunch Cruise but what they ought to say is that you can eat a traditional Sunday lunch aboard the ferry to Coll and Tiree. They do make an effort, setting tables with decent linen, etc., and the service is friendly and efficient. It’s still served in the cafeteria, however.

And Tiree

Leaving Tiree

Tobermory

Ben Mor on Mull

We sat in the sun all the way back to Coll and Oban, so I’ll probably regret that. Had cheese and wine for dinner – too full after a large lunch.

Back to Oban

Loch Etive, like a millpond

... and Loch Awe

Sunset over Loch Awe

Monday 1 June 2010

On the way home, we called at Loch Fine Oysters for smoked haddock, peppered mackerel and kippers... oh, and milk for when we got home.

Still some patches of snow on the mountains outside Inveraray

We drove back in sunshine. Not as much traffic as we feared, it being a bank holiday, and arrived home to our own beautiful garden about 4pm. We have a list of improvements we’d like to make to the Port Sonachan Hotel but, all-in-all, a very enjoyable break.